doublet


	Doublet assembly:


	1. Sew the chest front reinforcement panels to the front lining pieces.


	2. Sew the collar lining and reinforcement panel to the front lining pieces. There will be an overhang to the front. This will be cut off later.


	3. Sew reinforcement panel to the back lining panel.
						4. Sew the skirting pieces together. Lining to lning, reinforcement to reinforcement and outer layer to aouter layer. Note: the curve is to the top.


	5. Sew the back and the front pieces together. Sew from A to B along the back. Then sew from C to D to E from the shoulder to the base of the neck and up the neck. The corner on the pack panel should match where the collar meets the body on the front. ie at “D” Sew both sides of the lining and the outer shell together in this fashion.


	6. Sew the skirting to the botton fo the lining and the outer shell. Fold the back piece in half vertically to find the middle of the back and attach the seam in the skirting at this point. The skirting should curve upwards towards the doublet. Sew the lining and reinforcement skirting to the lining of the doublet and the single layer to the outer shell.


	7. Sew the two epaulets together. There will be three layers, two the same as the outer shell fabric and a layer of stiff reinforcement. Once the epaulets are sewn, turn them insde out and sew along the edge to seal them.


	8. Sew the Epaulet to the outer shell of the doublet. Fold the epaulet together and find the midpoint. Find the top of the armhole and after pining the epaulet to the outer shell sew it on.


		9. Sew the lining to the outer shell. The skirting and the collar pieces which stick out further than the front edge of the doublet, can be cut off once the inner and outer layers are sewn together.

	10. Trim the corners and turn the doublet inside out through one of the armholes. Sew down along the edge of the doublet.

				11. Turn the armholes inside and sew along the edge.

			12. place buttonholes every inch and a quarter to inch and a half along the front left side of the doublet. Sew the buttons on the other side.


	Sleeve Assembly:


	Sleeve Step 1. Sew along the bottom edge of the sleeve. Not that the mechanicals (the townsfolk do not have sleeves, if you do not have one in your packet, do not panic, it is intentional.


	Sleeve step 2. Turn the lining inside out and insert it into the outer sleeve and sew along the armole opening.


	Sleeve Step 3. turn the sleeve right side out through the cuff. Sew along the shoulder seam to seal the edge. Leave the cuff unsewn. It will not be sewn until the utfit has been fitted to the actor.


	Step 4. Attach the sleeve to the shoulder opening with a loose hand stitch. Only sew the area that is hidden by the epaulet on the doublet. Leave the bottom fo the armhole open. This simulates a tied in sleeve, without taking the time to make all the attachment points. If the sleeve opening is larger than the armhole, pleat the excess near the top of the sleeve.